Curl Index
ACID RINSE: An acid rinse can be used to balance the pH-level of the scalp. As a result of too many styling products that have not been washed out thoroughly, curls can become dull and difficult to manage. An acid rinse is a neutralizing and curl-friendly option to reverse this process and regenerate the scalp and the strands of the hair. For this rinse you can use apple cider vinegar mixed with distilled water. Alternatively, you can mix pure lemon juice in the same ratio as the Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse and mix it with water.
⚠️ All methods applies only if you do not have any allergies.
APPLE VINEGAR RINSE: An Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse (ACVR) can neutralize the pH value of the scalp and remove build-up. It also has other advantages: An apple cider vinegar conditioner defines curls & brings back the bounce, reduces frizz, adds a natural shine, detangles the curls in a natural way and helps with itchy or flaky scalp. The pH value plays an important role in an apple cider vinegar rinse and application: Apple cider vinegar has a pH value of 2, while (distilled) water has a pH value of 6-7. When the two are mixed together, an optimal value is created. An ACV conditioner is not intended to replace a shampoo, but is intended to be used after shampooing to "close" the cuticle of the hair after it has been lifted during the shampooing process.
Application:
To achieve a pH value of 4, mix 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar with approx. 230 ml of filtered or distilled water. It can be filled into a spray bottle or applicator bottle for better distribution.
After shampooing and rinsing thoroughly, pour the apple cider vinegar conditioner slowly over the entire scalp (or work it into the sections).
The conditioner is massaged into the hair and scalp for at least 3-5 minutes.
(The conditioner should be left on for at least 3 minutes. According to Science of Hair Care, the vinegar needs this time to break down the molecular structure of the residues so that they can be easily rinsed out).
Rinse with cold water to lock in moisture and shine.
Optional: Continue with a deep conditioner or normal conditioner.
Then style the hair as usual and continue with the individual routine.
⚠️Note: The apple cider vinegar scent disappears completely after the hair is dry.
Non-binding recommendation: carry out an apple cider vinegar rinse approx. every 4-6 weeks and adjust and try out the proportions as required.
This method is valid only if that there are no allergies.
BRUSH STYLING: Brush styling is a method of styling with a brush on wet or damp hair. Using a brush has several advantages: styling products can be better distributed in the hair and on the strands of your hair, you can achieve different styling results and the hair is detangled at the same time so that no knots are created. Brushes such as Behairful Brush or Scrunch It Brush provide definition, while brushes such as Denman Brush tend to create volume.
BUILD-UP: Build-up is a white, flake-like substance which can be caused by various factors: for example, due to hard water (containing lime), using too many (incompatible) products, or when the hair is not deep-cleaned regularly. Other signs of build-up are: very limp and heavy curls, as in some cases the build-up leads to blockages of the hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Among other things, this can inhibit hair growth and make the hair appear dull. For a thorough cleaning, deep cleansing shampoos or alternatively acid rinses (e.g. apple cider vinegar rinse) are particularly helpful.
CAST: A cast is created by the application of a styling gel (and sometimes styling foams). It creates a hard & rigid protective barrier that maintains the moisture level in the hair until it is completely dry. The cast can be scrunched out to create soft curls (SOTC -Scrunch out the Crunch).
For this, you can rub a few drops of oil into the palms of your hands and gently scruch. the hair. Alternatively to scrunching, you can use the Praying Hands Method to smooth the hair.
With a few drops of hair oil rubbed into the palms of your hands, you can gently unwrap these strands of you hair if needed.
CONDITIONER: A rinse-out conditioner is an essential part of the curl wash routine and should not be confused with a leave-in conditioner. A Rinse-Out Conditioner is used to soften, detangle and moisturize hair after shampooing. Compared to a leave-in conditioner, the traditional conditioner contains ingredients that stick to the hair to provide it with the necessary nutrients. If the conditioner is not rinsed out, it can lead to Build-Up.
CO-WASH: Abbreviation for Conditioner Washing.
Co-Wash is a milder cleansing alternative to harsh shampoos. It cleanses the scalp while preserving the hair's natural oils. While a shampoo foams heavily and dries out the hair, the co-wash retains moisture and supports healthy hair care. It is important to note that a co-wash is not compared to a traditional conditioner. A co-wash is easier to wash out and has special, mild as well as cleansing effects. This method is especially suitable for hair types that have mixed textures, are very curly, have very dry or coily hair.
⚠️Note: For a while, the hair feels clean, but with regular use, build-up may occur. Therefore, the hair and especially the scalp should be washed with a Clarifying Shampoo.
CURL CREAM: A curl cream is a rich and thick styling product which is great for thicker hair & provides light to medium hold.
CURL TRAINING: Curl Training refers to methods that help damaged curls or weak curl textures to get their natural structure back during the Transitioning Phase.
Popular curl training methods include Finger Coiling, Finger RollingTwisting or Brush Styling, to achieve more definition.
These methods can be done either while styling with a leave-in, for more hold with a gel or while applying a deep conditioner.
DEEP CONDITIONER/DEEP CONDITIONING: A deep conditioner moisturizes the hair and promotes hair elasticity. With a conditioner treatment, essential lipids of the hair, which are lost due to external influences and from shampooing, are replenished. This can also protect the curls from further damage.
Due to the thick and rich consistency, deep conditioners require longer to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively. This makes the curls softer and easier to comb.
Non-binding recommendation: use a deep conditioner once a week (or every two weeks depending on your hair and routine).
DETANGLING (WET DETANGLING): Dry curls should not be brushed or combed, as it can severely damage the hair. The best time to gently detangle the hair is during wash days.
This should be done, in the best case, when the hair is wet or damp, so that the hair does not break off or build knots. On wash days, moisturizing deep conditioners or leave-ins are especially good for the detangling process.
However, if you want to dry detangle your hair (before washing as part of the Pre-Poo Routine), you should be very careful here and slowly work your way from the tips to the roots. The Behairful Brush, for example, is best suited for this.
DIFFUSING: Diffusing describes the drying process in which you use the special hair dryer attachment (diffuser) to blow-dry curly hair, creating frizz-free and voluminous results.
Non-binding recommendation: To avoid hair breakage or dry curls, diffuse the hair at medium to low heat.
EXFOLIATING:During an exfoliating process (or peeling), one uses a scrub or shampoo with a light exfoliating effect to remove build-up and dead skin cells.
Another positive effect of a scalp scrub is that it not only stimulates blood circulation of the scalp, but also promotes hair growth. It is particularly suitable for oily and dry scalp as well as fine hair.
Non-binding recommendation: Depending on the scalp and hair type, use a scrub, peeling or detox mask about once every 2-3 weeks.
FINGER COILING METHOD: The finger coiling method is one of many curl training and styling methods. Finger coiling promotes the natural curl structure by twisting your individual strands of hair. With this method you can achieve more definition.
With this method you can achieve definition and also help the hair to "memorize" the curl shape.
FLUFF: To create more volume, shake the hair upside down while either using your fingertips or a pick comb to lift the hair at the hairline.
GEL: A styling gel is an essential part of the styling routine for many to provide light to strong hold. It can be scrunched into the hair after a curl cream or leave-in but also combined with other gels or styled with a mousse.
HAIR MASK: A hair mask, unlike a deep conditioner, strengthens and regenerates the hair. Hair masks often hold a higher proportion of proteins and are suitable, for example, for highly porous hair.
HAIR OIL: Hair oils have various functions. They are suitable as a Pre-Poo, for the LOC Method, to seal in moisture of the products or to scrunch out the Casts.
LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER: The main goal of a leave-in conditioner is to moisturize the hair. It serves as a base for any styling routine and does not need to be rinsed out compared to a rinse-out conditioner. Leave-Ins are more watery and lighter in their texture. They contain humectants which are easier to be absorbed by the hair and provide more elasticity & combability.
LMG METHOD: The Leave-In - Mousse - Gel method creates beautiful volume and hold for your curls. The products “Leave-In” - “Mousse” - “Gel” are applied in this specific order. The Leave-In provides moisture, the mousse gives lightness and volume and the gel provides sufficient hold and definition to the curls.
LOC-METHOD: The LOC method provides plenty of moisture, reduces frizz and is best for very thick & dry hair. The method consists of the following components:
1) Leave-In Leave-In: to moisturize.
2) Oil to seal in moisture and provide UV protection.
3) Cream to provide light hold and retain more moisture in the hair.
It is best to divide the hair into several sections to make sure that all the hair is covered with product. This ensures that your curls are moisturized and therefore protected from environmental factors.
LOG-Method: This method is similar to the LOC method. However, instead of using a cream in the last step you will be using a gel. The routine is completed with a styling Gel in order to provide a nice hold for your curls.
LOW-POO: Low-Poo is a mild shampoo variant that does not contain harsh detergents or sulfates, silicones and parabens and cleanses the scalp more than a co-wash.
MICRO PLOPPING: A technique to remove a large part of the water from the hair after washing to give them lightness & volume. To do this, shift the wet hair overhead or on the left/right side, take a microfiber cloth on both palms and press the water out of the hair with light and pulsating movements.
PARABENE: An ingredient which is used as a preservative and is a hormonal agent. Parabens have no negative effect on hair, but can affect the hormonal balance and can be harmful to your health, especially during pregnancy or other illnesses.
None of our products contain parabens & we strictly stick to this promise.
⚠️ We generally advise and even more with pre-existing health histories to consult a doctor if you have questions about ingredients.
PATCH-TEST: Patch tests are dermatological methods that can be used to determine if you suffer from any allergies, intolerances or other skin conditions. For curly hair products, patch tests can be performed on a strand of hair. For shampoos and products that affect the scalp, the forearm can be used as a test site. Furthermore, patch tests can be performed on the back of the hand to test the compatibility of 2 products. If white flakes form during mixing, they will also be visible in the hair, too. This can be counteracted by adding more water or by using products from the same brand.
⚠️ We as a retailer, as well as the manufacturers of the products, cannot prevent allergies. Therefore, we are obliged to list the ingredients in detail on our site and ask you to read them carefully.
PRAYING HANDS METHOD: The Praying Hands Method is a styling technique. Spread the product in the palm of your hands, take the hair between both palms and smooth the hair from top to bottom and scruncht the ends. This is the best method to avoid frizz.
PRE-POO: A pre-poo treatment is, as the name suggests, used before shampooing. Usually an oil treatment is applied to the scalp to treat dryness. Alternatively, a deep conditioner can be worked into the hair before washing. This is mainly to add more moisture & shine and to soften the hair and reduce breakage.
PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES: Protective hair styles are hairstyles which have been worn for centuries by black women for empowerment and historical, as well as practical reasons. By wearing tight curl structures they protect their hair from various factors such as heat, breakage, hair loss, high humidity, etc. As a result, the hair is less likely exposed to environmental factors, which in turn promotes hair growth.
PROTEINS: Proteins are composed of amino acids and are different in hair care products to proteins we know from our diet. They are called hydrolyzed proteins in curl products, which means that they are divided into smaller molecules so that they have a greater impact on the hair. This means they are more likely to penetrate the hair, strengthen it and protect it from rapid moisture loss. The more "damaged" the hair, the more proteins it needs.
RAKING: A styling method with which you can achieve excellentClumps. With the raking method, the product is "combed" into the hair with all 10 fingers. This untangles the hair and ensures that all strands are covered with enough product.
ROPING: Roping is another method of creating thicker Clumps when styling. Start by taking a strand in your fist at the roots, place your other hand underneath as a fist and move both hands down to the tip with pulsating, squeezing motions. Then gently knead the strand upwards to give it some shape. This method is best suited for wavy and slightly curly hair.
SATIN BONNET: Protecting curls at night means protecting them from breakage and frizz caused by conventional pillowcases. A popular option for this is the satin bonnet. For short to medium length hair, the bonnet can be put on very easily. For longer hair you can create a loose bun and pull the bonnet over it. Note: all hair should be tucked into the bonnet.
The next morning, remove the bonnet, let the hair fall into its normal state and then shake them out at the roots or refresh as desired.
SCALP MASSAGE: A scalp massage can stimulate the blood circulation of the scalp, which encourages hair growth. Additionally, Build-Up, dead skin cells and dandruff can be removed more thoroughly so that they do not block the sebaceous glands. A scalp massage can be done with a (Shampoo Brush) or simply with your fingers. Alternatively, you can also use a scrub for a scalp massage.
SCRUNCHING: Scrunching is a styling method that gives bounce and shape to the curls. To do this, flip the wet hair upside down or to the left/right side. Start to scrunch the ends of the hair with the palms of your hands while making a fist to pulse it upwards towards the roots. This method can be used with a conditioner, deep conditioner, styling products or gel/foam at the end of the routine.
SHAMPOO BRUSH: A shampoo brush serves a variety of purposes. Those are: helping to distribute shampoo to the scalp, serving as a good scalp massage and removing buildup that you can't get rid of with your bare fingers.
SQUISH TO CONDISH: Here the Scrunching Method is used with a conditioner or deep conditioner to give the curls more shape. The name has its origin from the "Squish" sound which comes from the process by squishing the wet and conditioned hair.
STYLING FOAM: A light and airy alternative to styling gels, is a styling foam, also known as a styling mousse. Styling foams offer a very light hold compared to styling gels, but create more volume. Nevertheless, a foam can be combined well with a gel (e.g. with the LMG- Method).
SULFATE: Sulfates are salts or cleansing surfactants which are the reason why shampoos create a nice foam. If they are used in large amounts, they can dry out the hair by opening the cuticle and stripping it of its natural nutrients, oils and proteins.
None of our products contain harmful sulfates & we strictly stick to that promise.
⚠️ ⚠️ We generally advise and even more when you suffer from pre-existing health conditions to consult a doctor or dermatologist with questions about the ingredients & products.
TRANSITIONING-PHASE: Often people manipulate their curls with heat or chemicals to smooth the natural curl structure.
The period between the end of the manipulation or beginning of the curl journey up to the point of recovery of the hair is called the transitioning phase.
UPSIDE DOWN STYLING: During this styling method, the products are worked into the hair upside down. You can use the raking or scrunching method (or any other method). With Upside Down Styling you can achieve wonderful volume. It is important that the styling products do not reach the scalp, only the strands of the hair. Additionally, the hair should be styled away from the head, so that the hair does not stick to the neck or the back of the head.